Thursday, June 30, 2011

Naples. Portici. Classes

We got out of taking the extra class, which was great news. I still haven't brought my laptop to class, but I think we are getting a wifi thing today so I will have internet in our house. I know I am letting all of you down by not posting pictures, but I am extremely lazy in this sweltering heat.

Today we are going to chill by the beach. The water looks quite polluted but the dark volcanic sand beaches should be nice enough. I am not sure what we are doing this weekend, but Naples closes down, so we should get out.

Yesterday I saw a car accident. there were two people (old man and a middle aged lady) yelling at each other. This wasn't the exciting part. The entire street was closed down by a mob of people gesturing wildly and sharing their opinions on the matter. I wanted to stay and watch, but didn't want to risk being involved in any way.

There is a little shop a few streets over that sells 3 bottles of unlabeled wine for a couple euros. I feel like this is the Italy I have been waiting for. Noisy streets, cheap local wine, and slow crowded public transportation.

The streets are really narrow here. Imagine the traffic in Boston, but with smaller vehicles and no room to pass. There are always cars and scooters zooming around on the stone paved streets. Old men sit in plastic chairs on the side of the road pretty much all day. It is impossible to walk abreast for more than a second without risking serious bodily injury.

There is a meat market across from our apartment that has a ice cream stand type display that drips water over stomach and other intestinal products. I am not adventurous enough to try it.

Overall I have been having a good time, but I still feel tired. I am going to try and get as much rest before travelling around this weekend.

The pizza here is good. I think all they eat is pizza and pasta.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Arrival in Napoli

So Naples. I will update on Lauren and my final days in Rome a little later. The internet situation is slightly uncertain. Our apartment is great but we can only get internet by leaning out of our window to steal it from the neighbors. We are going to try and get a wifi thing for the month, but can't figure out which package to get. Right now I am using the school computer. Our first class starts in 20 minutos.

Arriving in Napoli was easy enough, however we found out (the hard way) that italy requires reservations even with a eurail pass. Apparently in other countries you do not need to reserve a seat, but here, not doing so can be quite costly.

Naples is like a third world country. Trash (while not as bad as the pictures) is pretty much on every corner in piles. Near the train station is not the best place to hang around, but our apartment is far enough away to avoid the bad parts of town. In contrast Portici is amazing. It is like the florence of the south in my opinion. We probably should have stayed here, but we will make the best of our situation.

It still has not sunk in that I am in Italy nevermind about to sit in on a two hour econometrics class. Rob and I agree that if we can't make it the beach is right down the road.

The plan is to try to find a fresh food market on the way home and get the rest of the stuff that we need. Tomorrow I will bring my laptop so I can finally upload the promised pictures.

By the way, if you ever go to florence, make sure to visit Fiesole. Great views.

ciao

Sunday, June 26, 2011

On my way to Napoli

About to leave for naples. Not much time. will update on everything with pictures when I have settled.

Naples is full of trash. google image it.

ciao.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Last day in florence. Onto Rome

We got up extra early to go see Michelangelo's exhibit with the David scultpure. The doors openned at 8:15 but we got there around 8 and got in line. The line wasn't too bad, and for not having a reservation, getting in an hour later was a huge success. The exhibit is amazing. I saw it the last time I was in Firenze, but it has not lost any of its wonder. Along the aisles on the way to David there are a bunch (6) unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo. While the David sculpture is impressive, these sculptures are what I remembered being so fascinating. It really looks like these characters are trying desperately to release themselves from their stone prisons. Lauren also really enjoyed the exhibit.

After the Galleria we went to the dome of the duomo. The outside of the duomo is really nice, which makes it a little strange when you get inside and just see white walls with minimal scultpures or art of any kind. It was a relief in some ways and it certainly made everything look much bigger. We climbed up to the top of the dome and followed the curvature all the way to the top. Italians are short. I have scabs on my head to prove it. The view was really cool. We had our picture taken a few times (when I get to Naples I will add all of the pictures).

A nice pasta dinner and some gelato wrapped up the evening and we headed back to the hotel. Lauren left the windows open and let in all the most annoying bugs. These little things buzz in your ears for minutes at a time and when they get bored they bite. Lauren also didn't want the fan on because it was too loud, but it was maybe 80 degrees in our room. She is certainly cold blooded. I finally got my way and had to move the fan all the way around the room so it wouldn't be closest to her. I woke up covered in bug bites, Lauren was unscathed. As the eternal optimist I take this to mean that I am much sweeter than she is, which of course I know to be true.

We hopped on the train and got to Rome around 11. Our hotel is on the 3rd floor of a building next to a cafe where we checked in. We get free breakfast! However, we have to switch rooms because the hotel above us exploded the toilets and there is water in the room we were supposed to be in.

We have reservations for the Vatican tomorrow, but for today its off to the collesseum.

ciao

Monday, June 20, 2011

First day in Firenze. Pointless bus trips. Random parades.

We arrived in Firenze (Florence) around noon. The train station was bustling with travelers catching their departing trains out of Tuscany. Lauren and I were anything but bustling. Pretty much confused. We knew we had to (or did we) take a bus to get to our hotel, but we couldn't figure out the ticket situation for a while. After some perfectly time passive aggressive comments Lauren saw a sign above the newspaper stand that said bus tickets. Problem solved (for now).

Bus 6 from the train station claimed to take us to our destination, however the stop we were looking for was four stops behind the train station, and there were about 20 more to go in the loop before it got back to our stop. It never occurred to us that buses could go in both directions, at least it didn't occur to us until after we boarded the bus and contemplated the strange decision we had just made. Needless to say hindsight (which much to Lauren's delight I think should be spelled heinzheit) has become a motto for us on this trip, and this time we didn't leave anything to be desired. We pretty much messed up everywhere we could mess up, but it has been fun. The bus finally made its way back North of the Arno and towards our destination. But Wait! No! Could it Be! We arrived right back at the effing train station. The worst part is that we didn't even see anything interesting the entire time plus it was lunch time and all we had were chocolate filled biscuit cookies (which are delicious).

We gave up and took a cab.

After checking into our hotel we got a map from the lady at the reception desk who by now thinks I am about as dense as a block of parmigiana. This place confuses me. I can't open doors, I can't flush the toilet, and I can't figure out the signs at the train station.

Florence is pretty dopesauce. Lots of old buildings built with class (unlike venice which is cool, but its like that lady you know who wears all of her jewelry all the time and puts on all her perfume just cuz). We wandered about because all of the exhibits are closed on Monday, so we will try our luck by going into town early tomorrow.

Lauren found every pot hole or crack in the street to trip on. I am not joking when I say that she tripped about 15 times and fell off at least 5 curbs. The open air market is pretty sweet. Lauren got me a hat because my head was smoldering. It is linen, which is good because many years from now when I am dead and famous my work from this era will be known as my linen era, much like the primavera's of some other famous dead artists.

On our way to get dinner we heard the sounds of drums of in the distance. We rushed to see what all the hullabaloo (I spelled that right on the first try!) was about. A bunch of dudes in tights and tunics were waving flags, playing drums, and blowing horns. A renaissance parade! We watched it go by as the flag dudes threw their flags high in the air and caught them one handed. We went around another street to try to get ahead of them to get food, but they came right back around the other side and were headed straight back towards us. Cornered. To make matters worse the police horsees were not staying calm. No matter where I seemed to go the thing was slobbering and coming at me. The guy on the horse even looked concerned. As a good man I made sure I kept Lauren out of danger from the horses and right in the crowd of pickpockets and American hating thieves.

All in all it was a good day.

The plan for tomorrow is to see stuff. lots of stuff.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Cinque Terre. Anchovies. Walking forever.

We arrived in Cinque Terre yesterday. We were both real tired, but managed to make it to the hostel without any serious incidents. Taking trains across Italy is nice, but it can get a little tedious, especially when you have to take a regional train as the last leg.

Our hostel is near the top of Via Columbo in Riomaggiore, but instead of walking the easy way through the tunnel, Lauren and I decided to cirumnavigate the entire town, which consists a never ending steep grade. The walk would have been nice if we werent tired, hungry, mad at Italy, or carrying all of our stuff. To make things even more fun, our hostel room was pretty much at the top of the building. If you look at pictures of Cinque Terre, the towns are all built on the slopes of mountains, so everything is built extremely narrow and vertical.

The area is really nice. when you walk down to the water the layers of rock that at one point were horizontal and flat have been pushed up out of the sea and are almost vertical with some bends. The sight is really magnificent. You can really appreciate the force the Earth exerts to push these mountains right out of the ocean. Lauren had pasta with pesto for dinner. I had anchovie pizza. Of course we finished the evening with a night time stroll and a gelato.

This morning we woke up early and headed out to walk the 9km to monterrosso which is the furthest of the 5 towns. There is a lower path and a higher path with a couple zigzagging in between to connect them. The first trail from Riomaggiore to Manrola is short and flat along the ocean. It was a beautiful way to enjoy a brioche and cappuccino to go as well as an unassuming beginning to long difficult journey. The next lower trail was closed so we decided to walk up to the upper trail. Hopefully when I have a computer and connection that allows for uploads I will put the pictures. The view from the upper trail is unbelievable. To the south the ocean crashes into the coast and the towns slope upward along the mountains. Above the mountains there are ridges of walled gardens growing everything from cherries to olives.

The walk took about an hour and a half and added an extra 3 km to the trip, but it was well worth it. The trails are pretty steep and dangerous in some spots, but if you have the energy it is well worth the trip. Once we reached Corniglia we got back on the main trail. We kept getting passed by this shirtless old man with walking sticks who was practically running up the trail and then waiting for his wife, who was slightly less enthused. a couple hours later we made it to Vernazza where we had lunch (consisting of cherries, apricots, and cookies) out on the breakers. There were lots of people laying out on the rocks so we decided to join them for our feast. Not a few moments later a huge wave crashes into the rocks and drenches Lauren and me, only Lauren and me. We laughed it off and continued our regional snack. After that we walked the rest of the way and reached monterrosso by 3. 6 hours in total seems pretty good considering the detour.

I would definitely suggest coming to the Cinque Terre for a couple of days and hiking about. Maybe not all of it in one day, but it was certainly worth it for us. Tonight we are going to cook ourselves some dinner. Maybe pasta with pesto or a tomato and mozzerella sandwich. Lauren spotted some really interesting striped pasta so we may have to try it.

Here is Lauren washing her hands. A moment of zen.

Tomorrow to Florence.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Venezia. Boat buses, and street vendors.

We arrived in Venizia at around 9:30 yesterday morning. It was hot and humid. The train ride was really pretty cool. We followed the base of the Alps almost the entire way. It is strange in Italy that there will be nice villas built into the side of these mountains, but in the foreground there is a water treatment plant, or industrial park.

I tried to get a phone when we were in Milan. I am really trying to speak the language, but a few words in the guy just told me to speak English. Lauren thinks it has something to do with the fact that I was yelling poorly pronounced, and unconjugated Italian while gesturing violently with my hands in some catastrophically humiliating charade (a french drinking game). However, I am looking at my language failure another way entirely. If I can get everyone to want to speak English (Ingles) with me, then I believe I am the net winner. Needles to say I have graduated to a level 2 tourist as I know longer speak loud and infuriatingly slow English as if everyone here is hearing impaired.

Venice is pretty cool. There just isn't anything similar anywhere I have been. It is a little bit sad that everyone always warns you about how you are going to get robbed and cursed for being American. I can't help but think that this only perpetuates any hatred, if there is any to begin with. However, after getting of the train with one hand in my pocket (and the other one giving a peace sign) and the other one covering my face to protect me from spit, I realized that maybe the world isn't such an awful place after all.

We saw the basilica in Saint Marc's Square. Pretty sick. Lots of gold. It is interesting how because Venice has no solid foundation, all of the floors are wavy and make you feel like you are completely pissed (british for drunk). We tried to get into a glass blowing tour, but we didn't make it past the door. Everything here is super expensive, but we are only in town for the day. It rained and we tried to get into an exhibit that was supposed to have Da Vinci's Virtruvian Man, but it was not on display. Instead we saw about five thousand pictures of Jesus and some guy all stuck up with arrows. There were only two pictures in the entire place that showed any skin, for a total of three breasts. What happened to the Renaissance? Where is the nudity? the love of the human form? Lauren was extremely disappointed, but she is getting better at not running away when required to communicate. I am so proud.

This morning we are off to the Cinque Terre to eat some anchovies and olive oil. Maybe I'll start getting my tan on.

ciao for now

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Touchdown, some Foo, a little Milan, and the brutal sun

So we landed. Lauren stole my window seat when I went to the bathroom, but its ok because she didn't sleep well. The dinner was pasta with a blondie for desert. The flight was fairly uneventful, and we landed without a hitch. My bag was one of the first to come out and we made our way right for the train to Cadrona station. Apparently in Italy buying a train ticket isn't enough. In Italy it is necessary to find a non-existent validation machine to validate your previously purchased ticket. This machine exists somewhere in the 30 feet (approx. 10 meters (metres?)) between the ticket booth and the train itself.

The hotel was a bit of a hoof, but it was nice enough out. A little bit of history for everyone: Hannibal gave this city its name, which translates roughly from his native dialect to "land with few street signs". When we departed the metro station and realized that there was no way we were going to find our hotel by using our google map address, so I immediately went into bear grylls mode. I found the sun and using some trigonometry lacated our hotel without making a single error. Lauren was not as impressed as she should have been.

The Foo Fighters concert was great. Everyone here really likes to kick garbage around like it is a soccer ball. Lauren got scared when she got to the front of the food line and ran away after we both waited a good 20 minutes to get to the front. Apparently Milan has the best fans and hottest women out of everywhere all of the bands had ever toured. I'm a little saddened by this as I remember Boston and the surrounding areas used to have the hottest girls and best audiences, oh well.

We got back to the hotel and turned on the tv. It was about 2 milan time, which is right when the Bruins game was supposed to start. Lucky for us they had the game on, but with horrible announcers. Fading in and out of slumber we saw the Bruins lift the stanley cup for the first time in our life time. The streets of Milan were filled with people celebrating the victory over the Canucks who represent the Canadien people who are basically French; Italians hate the French.

We woke up, went to a few places around here. Lauren got suckered in to almost buying some bracelet from some tourist hound, but we survived. She did order Gelato though, it was good.

Im off to find some grub. Venice early in the morning.

Ciao

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Waiting for Liftoff

Lauren and I have checked in and are awaiting our flight to NY. A lot has changed since the last time I was required to check a bag. Apparently you need your boarding pass first, and then you get in line to check your belongings. Needless to say this added a frustrating element to the afternoon as we scrambled to find our 300 digit e-ticket numbers while people shuffled around muttering curses at the unprepared tourists occupying the ticket kiosks.

The trip to the airport was nice enough. Lauren's father was nice enough to drive us, and her sister came along for the ride as well. The conversation was pleasant, mostly consisting of places we hoped to see and the varying ways in which we could meet our demise on our journey over the sea. We almost got out of the house without incident, but Lauren thought she should track mud about right before her departure; a last defiant gesture.

I always get nervous going through security because I am never sure how many bins I am entitled to use. This time I used two, but I could have justified five or six. Lauren brought two bags of toiletries (major no-no), so at the last second she dropped one of them (obviously containing the most feminine of products) into my laptop bin (it was too late to grab another from the stack).

I am hoping that we will board soon. I want to settle in. Maybe I will get an orange juice, but who really knows. Until next time.

I wanted to leave you all with a moment of Zen titled "Galen: a search for undetonated fireworks in my shorts", but I couldn't upload it on Logan's WiFi. I will get that to you ASAP.

Toodles

Monday, June 13, 2011

Beginnings

This summer, the University of Massachusetts and the Italian Ministry of Agriculture have graciously offered to float me for a month in Naples for a class. Life is pretty rough these days. Because I have been robbed of the opportunity to sink deeply in debt for this trip along with the absurdity of a foreign (host country) country giving me money to motor about, I feel it is my duty to document this adventure.
I am currently watching the Bruins stompface the Canucks. I don't know if I am the only one, but I have come to the realization that the Canucks have stolen the Hartford Whalers colors. Unfortunately, A few moments of research on the internet would show that they had these colors in the 70's.
I am leaving, with Lauren, from Boston tomorrow at 2:10 and will arrive in Milan at some horrible hour (for us) that even farmers and garbage men have yet to see. I am excited to have secured a window seat for both the puddle-jump to NY and the million hour flight to Milan. We should land at 8 Italy time.
Any guesses on dinner?